Book Updates


Bevel Angle

Updated Aug 3, 2015!   People are still doing too much, so I am recommending a bevel no steeper than 20 degrees.  More is not better.  

Frog Migration

To clarify on frog migration. As the toe moves forward, with some feet only the toe moves forward (stretched sole, white line, and shallow hoof angle), and with others, the whole hoof capsule moves forward. On the latter feet, the frog, because it is attached to the back of foot by skin, and by the digital cushion (also attached by skin) it cannot follow the hoof capsule, and must remain at the “true” back of the foot. I call it migrated frog, but actually it is migrated hoof capsule. As the toe moves back it appears the frog is moving back into place, but really it’s the hoof capsule moving back under the horse. 

Heels 

Updated Feb 20, 2017

I realize that I really only address the heels once in the book, on Page 31.  Here is how to trim the heels:

If the heels are more than 1/4 inch above the sole, they should be trimmed down TO 1/4 inch above the sole.  If one heel is higher above the sole (under 1/4 inch above the sole) then it should be taken down to match the lower heel - in height above the sole. And only ONE heel should be trimmed when matching heel height. 

Heels should be trimmed flat, never beveled. NEVER EVER trim heels by looking at them from the back, the sole is the only guideline.

Beveling

In the book I state to try to leave 1/8 inch wall above the sole.  This is a mistake.  The hoof wants to beveled to the horse's white line.  To do that, no wall can be left above the sole.  So if there is no ridge, bevel to the white line at 20 degrees, if there is a ridge, bevel to just in front of the ridge at a 20 degree angle.  Do NOT thin the wall, just create a smooth slope.  Blend the bevel up to the heel through the heel quarter.

 

 

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